29 July 2011

Project Schedule
what you can do on the project
- time based -keeping on track -be on budget
- coordinating -materials -contractors -inspections

1. Site Establishment -clear site of vegetation and rubbish, need to get to solid -top soil
2. Site set out -profiles, string lines
3. Foundation -ground plate (hilti nail gun), jack studs, braces
4. Sub Floor/Floor -bearers, joist, insulation, fixings
5. Wall Framing -erect frames, brace (temporary), plumb, straighten the frames, square diagonally. Fixings, straighten studs
6. Roof Framing -trusses/braces, purlins, fascia,
7. Exterior Cladding -Building wrap, cavity batterns, cladding material, windows and doors
8. Interior Cladding -Insulation, plumbing, electrical, telephone, gas, tv cables, vacum, -Gib
9. Finishing work -Interior door, kitchen, toilets, bathrooms, laundry, finishing trims, tiling
10. Paint -drainlaying, driveway

In the workshop starting on the joints:

• Dove tail joint
• Halving joint
• Bridle Joint
• Mitre halving joint
• Cross halving joint
• Stopped halving joint
• Hauched mortise and tenon joint
• Mortise and tenon joint
• Dove tail bridle joint

May 24

• Today we measured and cut the plywood with the skillie saw and nailed it into the front next to the door, tucking the plywood behind it. we did the same to the sides and the wall B where the window was.

May 23

• Today we put up the door. first thing we did was made sure the bottom was leveled by using the aluminium straight edge and placing it on the ground and putting the spirit level on top of it to get and accurate level instead of trusting to place the spirit level itself on the ground and get a cricked result if the timber is either twisted or bowed. then we placed wedges under the door and then plambed the sides 10mm on both sides equally. then we tacked it to the wall with nails. then measured the space in between the top and then measured the bottom aswell and doubled the studs and nailed them at every 330mm. after that we used the skilly saw to saw the plywood so it could fit in between the wall and the door and succeeded and then tacked it in.

May 17

• measured and cut out the space under the rafts for the fibre cement weatherboards and cut the double sided white strap that allows the fibre cement board to slide into the grove on both sides. then we did the same underneath the outrigger and other side.

May 16

• today we finished cutting out the dovetail joints and glued the tool box together with clamps on the bottom to get the joint tight when the glue dries up. then braced the side to the bottom after making sure the inside corners were square. Then we went back outside and fnished off nailing in the rest of the batterns and nogged the top of the outside in between each battern. After that we put up our Fibre cement weatherboards and made sure the board slid into the grove of the facial board first then nailed it into the rafts.

May 10

• cavity batterns (green)
• today we stapled the building wrap to the wall frames and then placed the black roofing underlay on top and overlapped it then placed the iron sheets on top of the roofing underlay and screwed them into the purlins.

May 9

• Put up the facial boards. used a 5mm block and placed it in the groove of the facial board then nailed it into the end rafts.

May 3

• Describe the purpose of dovetail joints?

to make the joint stronger and will have less chances of separating.

• A dovetail has two components - Name them both ?

socket and pin

• Name all the roof from your project?

purlin, rafts, fly raft, nogs

• What is the name of the framing member to which a fly rafter is attatched?

top plate

• Today we stayed indoors and started making our dovetail joints with the good pieces of timber so we could construct our tool box. Then our sliding doors came on the trailer with the galvanised windows. we carried the doors into the workshop and then the windows next. then went to the computer rooms to do our blogs and revise on what we did this week. we also red the branz book to research more about what we were going to do next to the roof.

May 2

• Put nogs in between the rafts at the end of them, just above the top plate of the back wall. added a scaffold to the one already made b efore we made the bogs for the end rafts. Then we cut out the dovetail joint and used a craft knife to trim the sides and corners of the joint.

• Facial board
• Purlin
• Fly raft
• Out rigger
• Top plate
• Studs
• Rafters
• Building wrap
• Cavity battern
• Cladding Corner facing
• Soffit facing

April 13

• measured the distance between the purlins for the raft wings to go under each purlin keeping it strong. top plate of the side frames we measured the space in between the raft wings and put nogs which were green treated timber in between them sticking side by side but above the top plate of the side frames. for the nogs sticking out of the front frame we used the pink treated timber because it was water resistant and was the correct treated timber to use. the sized nogs we used was 90mm. and then we used 4x4 nogs in between the rafts (view from the front) to keep the rafts from twisting and to give it that extra strength for the roof.

April 12

• purlins were stagged and nailed on top of the rafts and nailed in to prevent the rafts from twisting. Put up a Metal and wooden scaffolding to reach the top of the house. Before bracing we used the spirit level to make sure the vertical parts of the scaffold were plumbed then we braced it with long pieces of timber to avoid the scaffolding from rocking or falling over. Spaces between each raft was 751mm. Made a string line across the width on top of the rafts as a guide for the purlins so they could be nailed in a straight line. made scaffolds in the middle of the house up against the back wall and braced it to the walls with timber under the braces for more support.

21.03.201121.03.2011


Reflection on the Profiles

1. Profiles/ Ground plates

• Name the parts and explain their functions/purpose?

Profiles: to set the boundary line and the mark the height of the batter board by using the telescope to set the measurement on the the measuring stick.

Ground Plates:

• How do we set them up?

By nailing them into the ground with a nail gun and making sure the profiles are braced.


28.03.2011

Piles/ Bearers/ Floor Joist

• Types of piles as per plan and their functions?

 doubling timbers and hammering the nails on a 45 degree angle so it prevents it from sliding and creates a stronger support for anything that goes on top of the bearers etc.

• Fixing requirements for pile to bearer and joist to bearer?

skewing the nail on a 45 degree angle and nailing it from the side  of the bearer down to the pile.

• What are the spacing requirements for the following piles and joist?

90mm from the sides then 600mm between each joist.

• What is the living space area?

Wall Framing requirements

• Find the length of walls A,B,C,D?

• A wall has structural components. Name all the components and state their functions?

Trimming studs: marked at the width of the window and upholds the window.
Studs: holds the top plate. keeps the wall frames strong vertically.
Nogs: keeps the spaces in between the studs and stops them from bending and creating a bow.
Solid blocking: keeps the studs straight and prevents the studs from twisting.

• What timber treatment is the bottom plate and why?

H3.1: because its water resistant and the bottom plate is closest to the ground.

• How do we set our wall frames? Use HBG Branz book to help answer the questions?

• Which nogs do we cut and nail later after we build our frames?

• what are the nailing requirements for the wall frames?

* Studs were squared off on one side and cut on a 6 degree angle for the top plate(roof).

Bracing requirements

• how can we identify bracing elements from the plans?

by locating the BL1 on the plans.

• why did we fix bracing straps on the trimmer studs and the lintels?

because the trimmer studs and lintels support the windows and will help prevent them from sliding or coming out and also prevent them being one sided.

• how many nails did we use and what nails were they?

4 on the top 2 in the middle and 6 on the bottom. 30x2.5mm, galvanised nails.



Roof framing

• Name the two roof framing members that you placed on the roof today?

Rafts and Purlins

• At what centres were they?

Rafts: 600mm
Purlins: 751mm

April 11

• We replaced the studs with longer ones and the nogs in between them with the correct sized nogs. then we learnt how to put up scaffolding step by step and learnt that they were used for reaching the height of a roof while it was secure with decent space. On the top on the ends of the top plates of all the frames we applied a silver plate that combines the two top plates together and hammering the groves down so its resistible when it tries to widen.

•  Then we went to go plan on how to build our roof and used the Building book to get our information from it and identify the steps we needed to take. Before we started on our roof our team had a little meeting and organised ourselves and splited up into pairs to get two jobs finished before the day because most of our team was gone and there was only for of us. So two of our team mates started on the rafts of the roof and me and other team member started on marking and chiseling 3mls off the timber and then nailing the stainless straps in them. We also marked and sawed small studs to hold up the ends sticking out of the house so it doesn't drop and cause the stud to disconnect from the top plate.

April 6

• We put the perforated aluminium foil over the joists of the floor and let it drop at 100mm between each of the joists and then nailing them in at the joists. Safety of the perforated foils is to wear sunglasses on sunny days because of the strong reflection it gives. Then we applied the ply wood on top for the flooring as staggered sheet joints and making the edges match T and G (tongue and groove) flooring with no gaps. Then we nailed the floor into the joists with galvanised jolt head nails. Nailing edges of sheets at 150mm crs and nailing the intermediate joists at 300mm crs.

• Then we nailed timber that was 90mm thick on the ends and middle of the bottom plate sticking up as a stop for the back wall and as a spacing guide. Then we lifted the back wall onto the floor and braced it on each side to the bottom of the bottom plate to the top of the wall. We lifted the frames up onto the floor and placed them in the places they were suppose to go in and braced them from the bottom of them to the top of the back wall. And the last wall we lifted and braced across the face of it (temporary braces). Then we made a string line going across the bottom plate and used a measuring block to check if was the same thickness as the spacer block and to check if the top was plumbed we used a spirit level and placed it on the corner of the back wall and frames and when they were plumbed we nailed the brace in the inside of the walls and frames. After that we cleaned up our workspace and went inside the workshop and planned and talked about what we going to do next week and how we were going to fix what needed to be fixed before we moved onto our roof planning.

• Overall as a leader i found it challenging. What i found challenging was trying to understand what to do on the first attempt and trying to keep my team organised by giving them tasks to do while doing them myself. But as i listened the second time my mind was starting to click more easily by trying to picture it in my head. One way that made it more easy for me to understand of what to do in each task we were given to progress in our work was reading the House Building Guide if i had listened and red this book earlier i would've been clued onto what we were doing in each step of the way.

April 5

Wall Framing
Name all the framing members?

• wall framming
• roof and ceiling framing
• sub floor jack framming

At what height did you place your lintels and why?

• 2mters 10

What points did you consider when setting out the wall frames?

• 
  

At what centres are the..

• Nogs: 800mm
• Studs: 400mm

How many nails did you use to fit studs to the bottom and top plates and what size and finish?

• 3 nails hammered to the bottom and top plates
• nail size 90 used 
• 
  

Subfloor

Why did we use solid blocking?

• to keep the joists straight and prevent them from twisting when it rains and absorbs moisture then dries up from the sun. 

Describe the nailing pattern for the sheet flooring..

• Perimeter: nailing edges of sheets at 150mm crs
• Intermediate: nailing to intermediate joists at 300 crs

April 4

• The first week of April and the week i step up to the plate of becoming leader. The things i found challenging about being leader was not do you only have to worry about what you do and how you work but to also make sure everyone else has something to do and that their doing there job correctly. first by making sure that we construct the frames fast and accurately. by the end of the day we finished both walls A and B but with different measurements for the windows.

• The studs and trimming studs we marked had to be angled off at the end at 6 degrees so that the roof can be on an angle when it goes on top. The length of the window on wall A was 410mm leaving the extra 10mm for the gap and the width at Lintel . For the small window at Wall B it was measured at 900mm.

March 30

• Today we started measuring, cutting and building our wall frames. Cutting the studs at different lengths depending on the height from the floor upwards, cutting the solid blocking at 300mm and cutting the Nogs at the with between the studs. We also cut the sides and the back of the house first so we can work off one side thats straight and work off it. Tips on wen when we nailed in the Nogs to to first set a string line running across the solid blocking and studs to the other side. leaving that straight string line as a guide for us to set the Nogs at. As we nail the Nogs in we nail two nails through the stud to the end of the Nog and making sure the top of it is flushed with th surface of the stud. Then hammer nails through the stud next to the Nog on angle till it nails into the end of the next Nog.

March 29

• We were in the computer rooms doing blogs and filling out the our student record. Next block we hammered in the joists checked the corners by measuring corner to corner with a measuring tape and then making sure the other corners met the same distance. Having the sub-floor equally parallel from both corner to corner. Took the braces off the profiles but kept the squares intact and hammered the nails out to prevent any injuries when handle with. Tidy up the workplace/area and planed the wall-frames for tomorrow and got the measurements for the timbers.

March 28

• Started marking the Piles measured at the height of the Batter boards eg. 350mm. 450mm then 27mm was marked for the first placing of Piles we used the spirit level to make sure they were straight. Then made braces to keep them straight and not move out of place. To stabilise or avoid the bearers from moving we placed braces on the inside of them.

• Started marking 450mm on the first bearer and then adding another 27mm as another mark. Then we measured and sawed timber for the braces to the length of the house nailed into the top and bottom of each sides of the bearers. Avoiding it to move out of squareness. Cut 4x3008 for the sides of the house checked that the wood had a bow or twist if yes mark an arrow or line on the side the bow is seen then placed them face to face and hammered nails into them on a 40 degree angle preventing the nail coming out on the surface of the timber. Then we cut 1x3475 for the front of the house and nailed the the ends into the 3008 timber so it forms a square.

• Wall Framing

- Determine stud height
- Deduct thickness of the top and bottom plates. Measure is the cut stud length
- Determine Lintel depth from 3604 tables , call size
- Establish door height plus clearance (10mm) from finished floor level
Using door height mark. Measure depth of Lintel above the mark. Lintel sizes will change according to span (opening size) door height is usually also top of window height.


Overall frame height = 2467
Top and bottom plate = 2467 - 2x45 =
                                     2467 - 90 = 2377 (cut stud length)

Studs @ 600crs = 8 studs

March 23

• Today was the day we started planing and building. The first thing we did was set the profiles and measured 8 and 9m with our measuring tapes and connected braces to support and prevent the profile from tilting or leaning one side. As we hammered the nails in place we check the squareness and level by using the Spirit Leveler then once the profiles were set we nailed them into the ground to prevent the profiles from moving. Then we used strings to mark out the boundary line of the house and squared it off by using the nylon measuring tape from one corner to the other and check if it was 90 degrees if not we would adjust it till it was an accurate measurement. After we measured and mark the height of the Batter Boards by looking through the Tripod and adjusting the numbers and height of the tripod.

•  Then we placed 4.5 lengthen timbers beneath the strings and nail it in with the hammer.

March 22

• We were catching up on blogs today and also answered questions seeing how much we understood as we constructed the sawhorse. After that we had a go on eMIT which was interesting and also tricky. If you want to have a go you first have to sign up..

http://emit.manukau.ac.nz/

• Then we got back into the workshop and i got to finish off cutting my legs. I then got to use the Belt Sander. I followed the safety precautions and wore ear muffs and safety glasses i would've used a dust mask but it wasn't needed because i checked if the belt sander had a dust bag to catch the dust as i used it. But before i used it i made sure the cord was over my shoulder and not near the belt and that i had a tight and firm grip on it so that it wouldn't take of when i started to use it on the sawhorse. I let the belt sander run at full speed for a moment before i used it and i made sure the sawhorse was stable so i kept my foot behind the leg so that it wouldn't fly backwards when i applied pressure to it.Then i sanded off everything else so that it would bring out the quality of the grain and be presentable.

•  End results of my sawhorse..